Why a Fabric Weight Chart Matters for Wholesale Hoodie Buyers
Fabric weight is one of the most important specifications on any blank hoodie. It influences hand feel, drape, decoration performance, seasonal suitability, and perceived retail value. Below you will find every Three Layer style organized by fabric weight from lightest to heaviest, along with the context you need to match weight to end use. Whether you are quoting a new program or comparing supplier spec sheets, this chart is a reference worth returning to. For a broader look at sourcing criteria beyond weight, see our Blank Hoodie Buying Guide.
Complete Three Layer Fabric Weight Chart
The table below includes every active Three Layer style sorted by weight, lightest to heaviest. Use it to compare weights across garment categories at a glance.
| Style # | Product Name | Weight (oz/yd²) | Weight (GSM) | Fabric Composition | Category |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1003 | 100% Combed Cotton Tee | 4.5 oz | 153 GSM | 100% combed ring-spun cotton | T-Shirts |
| 1005 | 100% Heavy Cotton Tee | 6.0 oz | 203 GSM | 100% ring-spun cotton | T-Shirts |
| 5108 | Premium Pullover Hoodie | 7.8 oz | 264 GSM | 80/20 cotton-polyester | Hoodies |
| 5109 | Premium Full Zip Hoodie | 7.8 oz | 264 GSM | 80/20 cotton-polyester | Hoodies |
| 3130 | French Terry Sleeveless Hoodie | 8.0 oz | 271 GSM | 80/20 cotton-polyester french terry | Hoodies |
| P280 | Midweight Pullover Hoodie | 8.8 oz | 298 GSM | 70/30 cotton-polyester | Hoodies |
| CR280 | Midweight Crewneck Sweatshirt | 8.8 oz | 298 GSM | 70/30 cotton-polyester | Sweatshirts |
| 7770 | Fleece Shorts | 8.8 oz | 298 GSM | 70/30 cotton-polyester | Fleece Bottoms |
| 8801 | Fleece Joggers | 8.8 oz | 298 GSM | 70/30 cotton-polyester | Fleece Bottoms |
| Y300 | Youth Pullover Hoodie | 8.8 oz | 298 GSM | 70/30 cotton-polyester | Youth |
| Y5501 | Youth Fleece Jogger | 8.8 oz | 298 GSM | 70/30 cotton-polyester | Youth |
| 15001 | Heavyweight Urban Pullover Hoodie | 12.0 oz | 407 GSM | 80/20 cotton-polyester | Hoodies |
Understanding Fabric Weight Units
Fabric weight is expressed in two systems. The U.S. wholesale market uses ounces per square yard (oz/yd²). International suppliers and spec sheets use grams per square meter (GSM). Both measure the same thing: how much a standardized swatch of fabric weighs. A higher number means a denser, heavier fabric.
Converting Between Oz and GSM
Multiply oz/yd². By 33.906 to get GSM, or divide GSM by 33.906 to get oz/yd². For example, 8.8 oz ×. 33.906 = ~298 GSM. When comparing blanks across suppliers, always convert to the same unit. For a full conversion table and a deeper explanation of how GSM affects sourcing decisions, see our GSM Clothing Fabric Weight Guide.
How to Read a Fabric Weight Spec Sheet
The fabric weight on a spec sheet or tech pack appears in the materials section. Key fields to check:
- Weight: The oz or GSM number that determines garment tier.
- Fiber content: Higher cotton content (70%+) takes ink and embroidery better. Polyester adds durability and reduces shrinkage. For a detailed breakdown of how blend ratios affect performance, see our Cotton vs. Polyester Hoodie guide.
- Construction: Fleece, french terry, jersey, and rib knit behave differently at the same weight. An 8.0 oz french terry (like the 3130) feels smoother and lighter than an 8.0 oz brushed fleece.
- Finished garment weight vs. fabric weight: Not the same. A hoodie that “weighs 24 oz” on a scale is not a 24 oz fabric. Always confirm you are reading weight per square yard or per square meter.
Weight Ranges by Garment Type
Different garment categories naturally fall into different weight ranges. Knowing the standard range for each category helps you evaluate whether a blank sits at the light, mid, or heavy end of its class.
T-Shirts: 3.5 to 6.5 oz (119 to 220 GSM)
Lightweight tees (3.5 to 4.5 oz) suit promotional use and layering. The Combed Cotton Tee 1003 at 4.5 oz sits at the top of this tier with retail-quality hand feel. Heavy cotton tees (5.5 to 6.5 oz) like the Heavy Cotton Tee 1005 at 6.0 oz deliver the thicker, more substantial feel that streetwear brands prefer and provide a superior canvas for screen printing.
Hoodies: 7.0 to 12+ oz (237 to 407+ GSM)
This is the widest and most consequential weight range in blank apparel. The difference between a 7 oz hoodie and a 12 oz hoodie is significant in hand feel, drape, warmth, and retail perception.
- 7 to 8 oz (237 to 271 GSM): Premium midweight. The Premium Pullover 5108 and Premium Full Zip 5109 at 7.8 oz live here. Refined drape, soft hand. Best for year-round wear, layering, and embroidery.
- 8 to 10 oz (271 to 340 GSM): Core midweight. The Midweight Hoodie P280 at 8.8 oz is the industry standard for this tier, thick enough for structure, light enough for four-season sell-through.
- 10 to 12+ oz (340 to 407+ GSM): True heavyweight. The Heavyweight Urban Hoodie 15001 at 12 oz delivers a structured, boxy silhouette with thick brushed fleece. This is the tier streetwear and luxury brands source for drops. See our Heavyweight vs. Midweight Hoodies guide for a full comparison, and our breakdown of why heavyweight blanks are worth the cost for margin analysis.
Sweatshirts and Crewnecks: 7.0 to 10 oz (237 to 340 GSM)
Crewnecks follow the same weight logic as hoodies but typically run lighter. The Midweight Crewneck CR280 at 8.8 oz pairs with the P280 hoodie in matching programs, same fabric, same colors, same weight.
Fleece Bottoms: 8.0 to 10 oz (271 to 340 GSM)
Joggers and shorts need enough weight to drape through the leg without clinging, but not so much they restrict movement. The Fleece Joggers 8801 and Fleece Shorts 7770 at 8.8 oz hit the sweet spot for a structured leg silhouette.
What Each Weight Range Feels Like in Hand
Numbers on a spec sheet do not tell the full story. At 4.5 to 6.0 oz you are in tee territory, silky and light at the low end, with noticeable body and resistance at 6.0 oz. At 7.8 to 8.0 oz hoodies start to feel substantial: enough weight to hang properly on a hanger, warmth without heaviness, and smooth drape against the body. French terry at 8.0 oz feels lighter on skin than brushed fleece at the same weight because the looped interior has no nap. At 8.8 oz you get the density most buyers picture when they say “a nice, thick hoodie”, plush brushed interior, garment holds its shape flat on a table. At 12.0 oz the weight is immediately apparent the moment you pick the garment up. The fabric stands on its own, the fleece interior feels more like a blanket, and the structured silhouette holds without relying on the wearer’s frame. This is the weight class that consistently generates strong buyer response at trade shows and in sample kits.
Choosing the Right Weight for Your Program
Weight selection depends on three factors: end use, decoration method, and target market positioning.
By End Use
- Year-round basics and layering: 7.8 oz (5108, 5109)
- Matching hoodie-and-jogger sets: 8.8 oz (P280 + 8801)
- Youth programs and school uniforms: 8.8 oz (Y300, Y5501)
- Streetwear drops and limited-edition runs: 12.0 oz (15001)
- Warm-weather and athletic programs: 8.0 oz french terry (3130)
- Promotional tees and event merch: 4.5 oz (1003)
- Premium branded tees and vintage washes: 6.0 oz (1005)
By Decoration Method
- Screen printing (large format): 8.8 oz and above. Heavier fabrics absorb ink evenly and provide a stable platen surface. The 15001 at 12 oz is ideal for jumbo prints.
- Embroidery: 7.8 to 8.8 oz. The 5108 handles small logo embroidery cleanly, and the P280 supports heavier stitch counts without puckering.
- DTG and DTF: High cotton content matters more than weight. The 1003 and 1005 (100% cotton) are optimal for tees. For hoodies, 80/20 blends (5108, 15001) outperform 70/30 in color vibrancy.
By Market Positioning
- High-volume programs: 4.5 to 6.0 oz tees, 8.8 oz fleece. Maximum units per dollar with solid hand feel.
- Premium / retail-equivalent: 7.8 oz hoodies and 6.0 oz tees match direct-to-consumer brand expectations.
- Ultra-premium and streetwear: 12.0 oz. The 15001 competes with blanks that retail for two to three times the price.
Quick-Reference Weight Tier Summary
| Weight Tier | Range (oz) | Range (GSM) | Best For | Three Layer Styles |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 3.5 to 5.0 oz | 119 to 170 GSM | Promo tees, layering, events | 1003 |
| Midweight (Tees) | 5.5 to 6.5 oz | 186 to 220 GSM | Branded tees, vintage wash, streetwear tees | 1005 |
| Premium Midweight | 7.0 to 8.0 oz | 237 to 271 GSM | Year-round hoodies, embroidery, layering | 5108 5109 3130 |
| Core Midweight | 8.0 to 10.0 oz | 271 to 340 GSM | Volume programs, matching sets, screen printing | P280 CR280 7770 8801 Y300 Y5501 |
| Heavyweight | 10.0+ oz | 340+ GSM | Streetwear, luxury blanks, oversized cuts | 15001 |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a good weight for a blank hoodie?
For most wholesale programs, 8.8 oz (298 GSM) is the optimal balance of warmth, structure, and cost efficiency. It is heavy enough to feel premium and light enough for year-round sell-through. If your client demands a luxury or streetwear positioning, move to 12 oz (407 GSM).
Is higher GSM always better?
No. A 12 oz hoodie is wrong for a summer event just as a 4.5 oz tee is wrong for a winter streetwear drop. Match weight to program requirements, not to a “heavier is better&rdquo. Assumption.
Does fabric weight affect shrinkage?
Indirectly. Heavier fabrics with higher cotton content can shrink more in the first wash if not pre-shrunk. All Three Layer blanks are pre-shrunk, but always wash-test a sample before committing to a large decoration run.
Why do two hoodies with the same weight feel different?
Construction and fiber content affect hand feel independently of weight. An 8.0 oz french terry feels lighter than an 8.0 oz brushed fleece because the loop interior has no nap. An 80/20 blend at 7.8 oz feels softer than a 70/30 blend at 8.8 oz because of the higher cotton ratio.
Where can I learn more about fabric weight and GSM?
Read our GSM Clothing Fabric Weight Guide for conversion tables and measurement details, then Heavyweight vs. Midweight Hoodies for a direct performance comparison.