If you have never ordered custom screen-printed apparel before, the process can feel opaque. Printers talk about ink types, color counts, setup fees, and file formats as if everyone knows what those mean. Ask the wrong questions upfront and you end up with garments that miss the mark, a bill larger than expected, or a timeline that blows past your deadline.
We are a blank apparel manufacturer. Screen printers are our primary customers. We do not print ourselves, but we talk to both sides of the transaction every day. This article is the checklist we wish every customer would review before placing their first screen printing order.
1. Minimum Order Quantities
Screen printing involves physical setup for every job. The printer burns screens (one per color), mixes inks, sets up the press, and runs test prints. That setup takes roughly the same time whether you are printing 24 pieces or 2,400, which is why almost every shop enforces a minimum order quantity.
Questions to Ask
- What is your minimum order quantity? Most screen printers set a minimum per design, typically between 12 and 72 pieces. Larger commercial shops may require 144 or more.
- Does the minimum apply per design or per order? If you have three different designs, you usually need to meet the minimum for each design individually, not across all three combined.
- Is the minimum per size or per style? If you need 24 hoodies across five sizes, confirm that 24 total meets the minimum rather than 24 per size.
- What if I need fewer than the minimum? Some printers accommodate small orders at a higher per-unit price. Others will suggest DTG (direct-to-garment) printing, which handles quantities as low as one piece but at a significantly higher cost per unit. DTG makes economic sense for sample runs, one-offs, and orders under 12-24 pieces.
For a typical one-color job, 24-48 pieces is a reasonable starting point. Above 100 pieces, per-unit costs drop noticeably. At 500 or more, you should be getting meaningful volume pricing. Keep in mind this minimum applies to the printer’s setup, not the blank itself. Three Layer has no minimum order on standard stock, so you can source a single test piece before committing to a printer’s full production run.
2. Ink Type and Garment Compatibility
Not every ink works on every garment. This is a question most first-time customers skip, but it can be the difference between a print that lasts two years and one that cracks after five washes.
Questions to Ask
- What type of ink do you use? The three main types are plastisol (sits on top of the fabric, vibrant, noticeable texture, works on any fiber content including polyester blends), water-based (soaks into fibers, very soft hand-feel, works best on 100% cotton or high-cotton blends), and discharge (removes the garment’s dye and replaces it with the print color, zero hand-feel, only works on 100% cotton with compatible dyes).
- Which ink type do you recommend for my project? A good printer will ask about your blank’s fiber content, your design, and the finish you want before recommending an ink.
- Will the ink work with my chosen garment? If you have already selected a blank, provide the fiber content. Bringing a 50/50 cotton-poly hoodie and requesting water-based ink will produce uneven results. Ask about compatibility before production starts.
We see mismatches from the garment side regularly. A customer brings a polyester-blend blank and asks for discharge printing. It does not work. If they had asked about compatibility first, the printer would have steered them to a different garment or ink system.
This kind of mismatch is exactly why matching ink chemistry to fiber content deserves its own conversation, and our water-based vs plastisol ink guide walks through how that choice changes the print.
3. Turnaround Time
Screen printing is a physical manufacturing process. It takes longer than most people expect.
Questions to Ask
- What is your standard turnaround time? Most shops quote 7-14 business days from art approval to completion. This does not include the art approval process itself, which can add days depending on revisions.
- Do you offer rush service? Many shops can turn jobs in 3-5 business days for an additional 20-50% premium.
- When does the clock actually start? Turnaround typically begins after artwork is approved, payment is received, and blank garments are in hand. If any of these is pending, the timeline has not started, even if the printer verbally told you a date.
Plan for 2-3 weeks from your first conversation to having finished garments in hand. If your project has a hard deadline, tell the printer on the first call. Also factor in garment sourcing: if blanks need to be ordered, that adds 2-5 business days.
4. File Format and Artwork Requirements
The file you use on your website or Instagram is almost certainly not suitable for screen printing without modification.
Questions to Ask
- What file formats do you accept? Vector files are preferred: AI (Adobe Illustrator), EPS, or PDF with vector artwork. Vector scales to any print size without losing quality.
- Can you work with raster files (JPEG, PNG)? Usually yes, but the file needs to be at least 300 DPI at the final print size. A 72 DPI web graphic will look pixelated when enlarged.
- Do you offer art services? Many shops can recreate your design in print-ready format for $25-75. Ask upfront if your logo exists only as a small web image.
- How do you handle color matching? Printers use the Pantone Matching System (PMS) for precise color. If your brand has specific PMS colors, provide them. A JPEG with “match this blue” will get an approximation, not an exact match.
- How does color separation work? Each color requires a separate screen. Designs with gradients or photographs may require simulated process separation (4-8 halftone screens), which is more complex and expensive. Ask how many screens your design requires.
The approval process typically works like this: you submit files, the printer creates a digital mockup, you approve or request changes, then production begins. Most shops include one or two revision rounds in their pricing.
5. Can I Supply My Own Blanks?
This is one of the most important questions to ask, and the answer varies from shop to shop.
Questions to Ask
- Do you accept customer-supplied garments? Most printers do. Some charge a handling fee or require a larger spoilage allowance since they cannot reorder your specific blank if something goes wrong on press.
- How many extra blanks should I send? Plan for 5-10% overage for setup waste and misprints. On a 100-piece order, send 5-10 extras to avoid delays.
- Does the per-unit price drop if I supply blanks? It should. The standard quote usually includes the blank cost. Supply your own and that cost comes off.
- Are there garments you will not print on? Some printers avoid certain fabrics or garment types that do not fit their platens. Ask before shipping.
Why Supplying Your Own Blanks Makes Sense
If you are building a brand, the blank is as much a part of your product as the print. Most screen printers stock standard-tier blanks from distributors. These work, but they will not differentiate your line from competitors printing on the same commodity blanks.
By sourcing blanks directly from a manufacturer like Three Layer, you control garment quality, often get better per-unit pricing than the printer’s markup, and build a consistent product identity. Browse the Three Layer wholesale catalog to see heavyweight tees, hoodies, and fleece built for screen printing. Many streetwear brands operate this way: source blanks wholesale, ship directly to the print shop to eliminate an extra shipping step.
6. Pricing Structure
Screen printing pricing has several components, and the total cost is never just “number of shirts times price per shirt.” Understanding the structure prevents surprises on the invoice.
Questions to Ask
- Is there a setup fee? Most shops charge $25-50 per screen (per color). A three-color design runs $75-150 in setup. Some shops waive setup fees for large orders or roll the cost into per-unit pricing.
- What is the per-unit cost, and how does it scale? Pricing drops with volume. Typical range: $12/unit at 24 pieces, $8 at 72, $5 at 144, $3.50 at 500+. Ask for a price-break schedule. Sometimes ordering slightly more pushes you into a lower tier that saves money overall.
- Does the per-unit price include the blank? Critical question. If the blank is included, ask which garment and fiber content. If quality matters, you may want to upgrade or supply your own from a wholesale blank supplier.
- How does color count affect pricing? Each additional color adds roughly $0.50-1.50 per unit. Simulated process designs with gradients or photographs push costs even higher.
- Are there hidden fees? Ask about art setup charges, additional print locations (front plus back is two jobs), specialty inks (metallic, puff), folding and poly-bagging, and shipping. Get an all-in quote before approving the job.
When comparing quotes, make sure you are comparing identical scope: same blank, same color count, same print locations, same quantity. The cheapest quote is not always the best value.
7. Proofing and Quality
Quality control starts before production and should not end until you inspect the finished product.
Questions to Ask
- Will I see a proof before production? You should always receive a digital proof showing placement and colors. Do not approve production without reviewing it.
- Can I get a physical sample? For large orders or jobs using a new blank, request a printed sample before the full run. Most shops charge $50-100. Worth it when you are committing to hundreds of units.
- What is your policy on misprints? Reputable printers reprint defective garments at no charge. Establish the acceptable defect rate before production starts.
- Who inspects garments before shipping? Ask whether the shop has a QC step before packing. Misregistration and off-center prints are easier to catch in the shop than after the boxes arrive.
8. Your Pre-Order Checklist
Before you contact a screen printer, have the following ready:
- Your design file in vector format (AI, EPS, PDF) or high-resolution raster (300 DPI minimum at print size). Know your exact color count and have PMS color numbers if applicable.
- Your total quantity broken down by size (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, etc.).
- Your garment preference. Are you supplying your own blanks or using the printer’s stock? If you have a specific blank in mind, know the brand, style number, fiber content, and garment color.
- Your ink preference. Do you want plastisol, water-based, or discharge? If you are unsure, note the hand-feel and look you want so the printer can recommend the right system.
- Your timeline. When do you need finished garments? Work backward from your deadline and add at least a week of buffer for unexpected delays.
- Your budget range. Sharing a budget helps the printer recommend the right combination of ink type, garment tier, and quantity to maximize value.
- Your intended use. Is this a retail product, a promotional giveaway, team uniforms, event merchandise, or something else? The answer shapes recommendations for garment weight, construction, ink type, and finishing.
- Print locations. Front only? Front and back? Left chest and full back? Sleeve print? Each location is priced separately and affects turnaround.
Finding the Right Screen Printer
If you are not sure where to start, Three Layer maintains a Los Angeles screen printer directory where you can search by location and services.
If you are a brand looking to supply premium blanks, browse the Three Layer wholesale catalog and have garments shipped directly to your chosen printer. A shop that specializes in large commercial runs is a different operation than a boutique studio focused on small-batch streetwear. Knowing what questions to ask helps you find the right match and helps the printer give you their best work from day one.